Twill Fabric



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Noun: a fabric so woven as to have a surface of diagonal parallel ridges.

What is twill fabric

Twill fabric is a heavier-weight woven fabric that has a distinctive diagonal weave. It is most commonly used in pants or jackets. Denim and chino are also popular types of twill fabric.

The word “twill” describes the weave of the fabric, but it can be made from many different types of fibers, such as cotton, polyester, wool, rayon, spandex, and more! The weave of twill is typically very tight, which makes for a piece of durable fabric.

Depending on the fiber content, twill can be used in many garments, such as pants, jackets, overalls, shorts, skirts, and even dresses!

Yanta Overalls from Helen’s Closet
Francis from Seamwork

Working With Twill Fabric


When you cut your twill fabric, keep the direction of the fabric in mind. Make sure that all your pattern pieces run in the same direction, as you may notice subtle differences in your final project, as twill fabric can be napped.

fabric nap matters – make sure everything is going in the same direction


Since twill is a woven fabric, use a needle that is general-purpose or universal. The size best suited for heavier-weight fabric is 90/14.


Sewing with twill will seem easier than sewing a lightweight fabric that could shift when sewing because it is a sturdy fabric. You can sew your seams with a straight stitch, but you will want to finish the raw edges either before or after you sew the seam.

Caring for twill fabric

Caring instructions for your twill fabric depends on the fiber content of the fabric.

A 100% cotton twill can be washed in a washing machine and dried in the dryer, laid flat, or hung to dry. It is durable and fairly wrinkle-resistant. 

A wool-blend twill fabric will be treated much differently, as you won’t want to felt the fibers. Handwashing and line dry would be the best for this type of twill. 

Be sure to look at care instructions for your fabric when purchasing and always wash your items inside out to preserve the life of your garment.

*note* Definition sourced from Oxford Languages via

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